Costume National
Designer: Ennio Capasa
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, Via Tortona, 58
Photos: slide show

  • “So you want a suit that’s slim but, you know, not all stiff and structured. Hello, Costume National.” (GQ.com)
  • “[Capasa] focus[ed] his attention on harnessing modern techniques … their implementation was finely executed with a light touch.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Capasa left rock ‘n’ roll behind to explore the corporate world — albeit on his own sartorial terms. … it’s debatable what Gordon Gekko would think of the translucent T-shirts worn underneath.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
  • “The ’80s are back. Our favorite nutjob decade offered another strong statement, at Corneliani. (Esquire.com)
  • “Suits that probably look best when you’re on a yacht deck, not presenting a PowerPoint deck.” (GQ.com)
  • “Struck a good balance between natural fabrics and cutting-edge tailoring.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Jil Sander
Designer: Raf Simons
Date and Location: Thursday, June 17, Via del Rossellino, 72, Firenze
Photos: slide show | video

  • “Proposed classic lines in startling colors.” (AFP)
  • “Had sass and cool swagger.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
  • “With this collection, Mr. Zucchelli, who has been doing a fine job at Calvin Klein, had a misstep. His fabric research seemed to be taken to extremes.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Zucchelli continues to plot his own modernist course, sending out the kind of minimalist uniforms that a forward-thinker like Daniel Libeskind might go for, were he 20 years younger and a lot more fun.” (GQ.com)
  • “Zucchelli excels at exploring that sort of futuristic, man-as-automaton notion, but there was something literal about this take that felt less sophisticated than usual.” (Style.com)
  • “An eclectic show.” (Vogue.com UK)
  • “It was a classic case of overexertion.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Haider Ackermann
Designer: Haider Ackermann
Date and Location: Wednesday, June 16, Via del Parione, 11, Firenze
Photos: slide show

John Varvatos
Designer: John Varvatos
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, C.so Italia 21
Photos: slide show

Designers: Donatella Versace and Martyn Ball
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, Piazza Vetra, 7
Photos: slide show

  • “Italianate playboy being ushered through the velvet rope.” (GQ.com)
  • “The use of strong citrus colors, animal prints and geometric motifs gave the relaxed tailoring a bit of much-needed backbone.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Vukmirovic has taken a few seasons to strike the right balance between flash and substance, but his self-confidence has eventually settled into a winning optimism.” (Style.com)
  • “[A] wearable take on the ['90s].” (Women’s Wear Daily)
  • “Using a combination of colors that one would normally expect to find inside a box of Legos or at F.A.O.  Schwarz … Raf Simons whipped up a Pop Art ensemble that dazzled the eyes.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
  • “Raf’s bold swagger is in full force here, goose bumps included.” (GQ.com)
  • “This Jil Sander collection was exceptional and powerful — not least because each piece, worn singly with a plain partner, could be extracted from the designer’s mix of pink top with purple pants, rose jacket with tomato red shorts or turquoise sweater and orange trousers.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “The event most likely set the tone for much that will follow in men’s wear during the coming weeks … and, at a mass market level oakley frogskin sunglasses, next year.” (The New York Times)
  • “Intense yet cheerful, the blues oakley frogskin sunglasses, greens, yellows, pinks and oranges could have been taken from nature or a Warhol or a Koons canvas.” (On The Runway)
  • “In Simons’s hands, it was a cool, precise challenge to nature’s own chaotic palette.” (Style.com)
  • “The collection felt both brand-right and yet more Raf than ever.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

See all of T’s Fashion Week coverage.

Designer: team
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, Via San Vittore, 21
Photos: slide show

  • “Black-and-white Vasarely, rockabilly style.” (AFP)
  • “A rockabilly-inspired romp.” (All The Rage)
  • “[The] triumphant show was inflected with British gangster and ska style, not to mention rockabilly — a heady combo that invoked the golden age of the house.” (Esquire.com)
  • “Versace has skipped out of ‘Miami Vice’ and marched into pre-mod London.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
  • “Welcome back to the ’80s. If you dig that whole rockabilly/Billy Idol/Stray Cats thing (which was already a re-introduction of the ’60s), you’ll be all over Donatella’s latest.” (GQ.com)
  • “The Versace brand is in a delicate position, as it tries to tempt a new generation while still serving the faithful followers. This collection looked like a halfway house.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “The ’80s hold a powerful sway over the house of Versace, and Martyn Ball, new man on the company’s men’s-wear block, certainly didn’t resist their appeal in his debut collection.” (Style.com)
  • “According to Versace, the collection is ‘for a man who’s very glamorous and very independent.’ Add to that courageous, too.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Calvin Klein
Designer: Italo Zucchelli
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, Viale Umbria, 37
Photos: slide show

  • “No contradiction is in store next summer for the well-dressed man who dons eco-friendly fabrics while harking back.” (AFP)
  • “A virtuoso show.” (The Daily Telegraph)
  • “This is the 20th year doing men’s wear for the boys from the south of Italy, and this season [Dolce and Gabbana] bring a collection that’s deep to (and inspired by) their roots.” (GQ.com)
  • “This was a watershed moment for the designers, whose calm and unforced collection had the ease that comes with no longer wanting to push boundaries of taste or striving to be part of a youthful club scene.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Glamour and tradition mingled at the duo’s celebratory show.” (Reuters)
  • “Refreshed the house’s classic signatures.” (Style.com)
  • “Marks a return to the brand’s roots.” (The Wall Street Journal)
  • “The designer duo revisited their greatest hits on an army of models that channeled the simplicity and masculine beauty of their early years, updated for today.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Dolce & Gabbana
Designers: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, Viale Piave, 24
Photos: slide show

  • “For Umberto Angeloni, his Uman collection is an intellectual opportunity to explore the concept of man in action — and turn it into the icons of men’s wear.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “A navy peacoat, a jacket shirt splashed with a tropical flower motif and a pale blue safari jacket in cotton and linen sure looked the part.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

If it’s Monday, Scorecard must be in Milan. Resort may have just wrapped for the ladies, but as our color-coded master fashion calendar reminds us, it’s time to get up to speed on the spring 2011 men’s-wear shows, which is why we’ve pulled double duty reading all the reviews so you don’t have to. Between John Varvatos’s 10th-anniversary rocker-chic redux and Dolce & Gabbana’s 20th-anniversary Sicilian sartorial extravaganza, this weekend designers were taking a long look back. Yet it was Raf Simons’s Koonsian pastiche for Jil Sander oakley frogskin sunglasses, which was actually shown in Florence last Thursday as part of Pitti Uomo, that blew everyone else out of the water, reminding us that granddad-like isn’t necessarily chic. Celebration, indeed.

  • “Call it soft rock.” (GQ.com)
  • “If the world of rock has been a cornerstone of the Varvatos brand for the past decade, this season he seemed to be designing for musicians on a country holiday.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “He may love it in his music, but the designer isn’t about revolution in his fashion.” (Style.com)
  • “Varvatos … has been remarkably consistent, and knows just how a little variation keeps his fans returning for more.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
  • “[A] many-layered memory lane.” (All The Rage)
  • “St. Tropez, on or off the yacht.” (GQ.com)
  • “Missoni lined up young men in a garden center, where the floral abundance could hardly compete with the concentration of color and pattern in the layers of knitwear, shirts and long T-shirts.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “This one literally stretched things out a little too far.” (Style.com)
  • “The eccentric pileups made a preppy-hobo statement that didn’t exactly incite desire.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Burberry Prorsum
Designer: Christopher Bailey
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, C.so Venezia, 16
Photos: slide show

  • “Burberry focused on leather and suede in tight trousers and finely tailored jackets.” (AFP)
  • “The larded-up leathers and heavy metal felt a bit heavy handed.” (All The Rage)
  • “Took equal inspiration from the military (as it should) and motorcycle culture.” (Esquire.com)
  • “This season, it’s full-on Mods vs. Rockers at Burberry.” (GQ.com)
  • “The heritage biker idea seemed forced.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Bailey may have made his rep with collections that leaned toward wistful melancholia, but the harder he goes, the better the clothes seem to get.” (Style.com)
  • “Heavy duty.” (Vogue.com UK)
  • “Bailey got tough at Burberry this season.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
  • “Dark, brooding, and cerebral.” (BBook.com)
  • “Arabian-chic (or Playboy Mansion-chic — you decide).” (The Cut)
  • “Japanese pirate meets rocker.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
  • “If [Ackermann's] richly embroidered jackets, soft knits glimmering with beading, low-crotch pants and peacock feather oriental slippers had a costume vibe, the show was still very beautiful.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Beautiful, yes, but so exquisitely studied that the carte blanche, the drama, went missing.” (Style.com)
  • “[A] lusty, bohemian vibe.” (The Thread)
  • “Whether Ackermann will commercialize the men’s wear remains to be seen, but his lady has definitely met her match.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Designer: Angela Missoni
Date and Location: Friday, June 18, Via Arena, 7
Photos: slide show

Designer: Umberto Angelon
Date and Location: Friday, June 18, Via Gesu, 10
Photos: slide show

Trussardi 1911
Designer: Milan Vukmirovic
Date and Location: Saturday, June 19, Piazza della Scala, 5
Photos: slide show